Changchun

Changchun gets way too little love. I’m a history nerd and the Puppet Emperor's Palace gave me chills—gorgeous, dark, and full of layers. Renmin Square’s Soviet-era buildings are like a frozen time capsule; I spent an hour just staring at the high-reliefs. Even the local park near my hotel had old men singing opera and women dancing under long pines. The city feels authentic and overlooked. Easily one of my favorite stops on a trip across Northeast China.

Went to Changchun for the food and stayed for the city. We ate cold Korean noodles at a tiny place near the Korean neighborhood, lamb skewers fresh off the coal at night, and pretty much lived on big fluffy northern dumplings. Prices were shockingly low. After that, walked off the calories along the wide ginkgo-lined streets in autumn. The golden leaves were unreal. I could see myself living here quietly. Go before everyone discovers it.

If you like real winters, Changchun is magical. I went in January and my scarf froze into a stiff board outside, but I laughed the whole time. The frozen Nanhu Lake was full of locals skating and curling, and the snow-covered willow trees looked like glass. Candied hawthorns by the shore were sweet and sour; even at -15°C, people were smiling. I have never felt such warmth inside a snowy city. Absolutely recommend.

Changchun surprised me. I came for the Puppet Emperor's Palace and left really impressed by that chapter of puppet history; the building is a strange mix of Japanese and European styles. It lacks English panels, so read up beforehand. The tree-lined streets and safe evening ambiance are a plus. Only drawback is the subway didn't reach many sights and my phone map was outdated. Still, a solid city to spend a couple of days.

I was torn about Changchun. The city itself has some lovely old parks and the winter scenery is pretty, but my trip kept hitting little snags. The hotel had me waiting 40 minutes for my room, most taxi drivers didn't understand my simple Chinese, and several of the 'must-see' sights were closed for maintenance. Nanhu Park was nice for a walk at sunrise, but honestly I was glad to move on. Not a bad city, just not one that made me want to return.

Honestly, I came during January and the cold was brutal — made it hard to enjoy outdoor places like South Lake Park because everything was frozen and windy. Most indoor activities close early too. The city itself is interesting, but the winter weather really dampened my experience. Wish I'd visited in a warmer season.