Ming Yang
What You'll Find Here
I've lost count of how many times I've walked these arcaded streets, but every time I bring a new group here, their jaws drop when they look up at the intricate facades. Haikou Qilou Old Street isn't just another tourist spot — it's a living museum where the scent of fried dough and sandalwood mingles with the salty sea breeze. Most guides tell you the basics, but I'm going to share the real experience: the best angle for photos, the alleyway snack stall that locals guard like a secret, and why you should never come at noon.
What's So Special About Qilou Architecture?
Qilou literally means "riding building" — a type of arcade building where the upper floors overhang the sidewalk, supported by columns. This style was brought back by overseas Chinese from Southeast Asia in the early 20th century. Haikou's Qilou cluster is one of the largest and best-preserved in China, with over 200 buildings spanning roughly 1.5 kilometers along Zhongshan Road, Deshengsha Road, and Boai Road.
The architecture blends Chinese, European, and Southeast Asian elements. Look for the carved wooden panels, plaster reliefs, and colorful window shutters. Each building tells a story — some were trading firms, others were opium dens or teahouses. My favorite detail: the tiny balcony railings shaped like pineapples (a symbol of prosperity in Hainanese culture).
How to Get to Haikou Qilou Old Street
The street sits right in the center of Haikou, about a 20-minute drive from Haikou Meilan International Airport (if traffic is light). Here's the easiest way to reach it:
| Method | Details | Cost (approx) |
|---|---|---|
| Taxi / Didi | From airport: 40–60 minutes, depending on traffic. Tell driver "骑楼老街" or show them the Chinese characters. | ¥60–90 |
| Metro | Line 1 to Fuxing City Station, Exit B. Then walk 10 minutes east along Longhua Road. Or get off at Zhongshan Road station (under construction — check before you go). | ¥3–5 |
| Bus | Routes 3, 5, 6, 7, 23 all stop at "Zhongshan Road" or "Qilou Old Street". | ¥1–2 |
| Walking | From the Haikou Clock Tower (another landmark), it's a pleasant 15-minute stroll along the riverfront. | Free |
My recommendation: Take the metro to Fuxing City Station. The walk from there passes a small local market where you can buy fresh sugarcane juice (¥5 a cup) — the perfect refreshment before entering the old street.
Things to Do: Eat, Shop & Explore
1. Get Lost in the Side Alleys
The main drag is nice, but the magic happens in the narrow lanes branching off it. Try Jiefang West Road for vintage clothing stores run by elderly tailors, or Boai South Road for hardware shops that look like they haven't changed since the 1980s. I once found a tiny courtyard hidden behind a fabric shop where an old woman sells homemade Hainan coffee — thick, sweet, and mind-blowingly good.
2. Visit the Haikou Qilou Old Street Museum
It's a small museum (free entry!) at No. 7 Zhongshan Road, inside a restored qilou. It covers the history of the arcade buildings and the overseas Chinese who built them. Allow 30 minutes. The model of the entire old street at the back is a great photo opportunity.
3. Shop for Local Crafts
You'll find shops selling Hainan pearl jewelry (warning: many are overpriced), coconut carvings, and Li & Miao ethnic textiles. Bargaining is expected — start at 50% of the asking price. I personally avoid the pearl shops and go for the hand-woven brocade bags (about ¥80–150) made by the Miao minority.
Best Time to Visit (and When to Avoid)
Haikou is hot and humid year-round, but there's a catch. November to March is the "cool" season — temperatures around 20–25°C (68–77°F), perfect for walking. April to October is the rainy season, with frequent afternoon downpours and sweltering heat.
But the real enemy is the sun: the arcades provide some shade, but the reflected heat from the pavement can be brutal. Never come between 11:00 and 14:00. The shops are open, but the light is harsh for photos, and you'll be dripping sweat. Instead, arrive at 9:00 AM (right when most shops open) or 4:00 PM (golden hour for photography, and the food stalls start setting up).
Photography Tips from a Local Guide
You'll see everyone taking the same shot: standing in the middle of Zhongshan Road, pointing the camera upwards to capture the arcades. Yawn. Here's what I tell my photographer friends:
- Go wide, but low: Crouch down to include the cobblestones and the arched colonnades. It gives depth.
- Look for reflections: After a rain shower, puddles mirror the buildings perfectly. Bring a polarizing filter to cut glare.
- Early morning = empty streets: If you can wake up for 7:00 AM, you'll have the entire street to yourself. The shopkeepers are opening their shutters — that's a great action shot.
- Don't overlook the details: Close-ups of carvings, iron grilles, and faded shop signs tell a story. My favorite is a wall with a faded Phoenix brand bicycle advertisement from the 1960s.
Where to Eat: Must-Try Local Food
Food is the soul of Qilou Old Street. Skip the touristy restaurants on the main street and follow the locals to these spots:
| Dish | Where to Find It | Price | My Take |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wenchang chicken | "Chicken Master" stall at the corner of Boai Road and Xinhua Road. Look for the red sign. | ¥38 for half a chicken | Poached, silky, served with ginger-scallion sauce. Best chicken I've had outside of Wenchang itself. |
| Hainan rice noodles | "Old Street Noodle Shop" at No. 89 Zhongshan Road | ¥12–15 | Dry noodles with peanut, minced pork, and pickles. Add a spoonful of chili oil. |
| Seafood congee | Night market at the intersection of Jiefang and Boai (starts at 6 PM) | ¥20–30 | Thick rice porridge with shrimp, squid, and ginger. Perfect for a light dinner. |
| Coconut milk dessert | "Sweet Coconut" shop, 32 Deshengsha Road | ¥10 | Chilled coconut jelly topped with diced fruit. Refreshing after a walk. |
Don't miss: The fried dough sticks sold from a cart near the museum. They're made fresh every morning, and the guy sells out by 10 AM. Crispy on the outside, fluffy inside.
Frequently Asked Questions
Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team. All prices and details reflect conditions as of the latest update. Always confirm current opening hours and ticket prices via the official Haikou tourism WeChat mini-program before your visit.
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