Haikou 3-Day Itinerary: Skip the Crowds & Eat Like a Local

I’ve been leading small-group tours through Hainan for over six years, and I still get a kick out of Haikou. Most Western guides either skip it or treat it as a one-day stopover before Sanya. That’s a mistake. Haikou has a gritty, authentic charm — colonial arcades where old men play Chinese chess, steaming bowls of mifen at 7 a.m., and beaches that feel almost empty on weekdays. This 3-day itinerary is the one I actually use for my friends and returning clients. It’s paced so you aren’t rushing, but you won’t miss the good stuff either.

Day 1: History & Street Food Crawl

Morning: Qilou Old Street

Start at Qilou Old Street — a living museum of shophouses built by overseas Chinese in the 1920s. The architecture blends European columns with Chinese motifs. I always enter from Zhongshan Road because the light hits the facades perfectly before 10 a.m.

Address: Zhongshan Road, Longhua District. Free entry. Most buildings are open 24/7, but shops open around 9:30 a.m. Take Metro Line 1 to Dongmen Station, Exit B — walk 5 minutes north.

Late Morning: Haikou Clock Tower & Renmin Park

A 10-minute walk east brings you to the Haikou Clock Tower, a British-style structure built in 1929. Snap a quick photo, then cross the street into Renmin Park. I love watching the locals practicing tai chi or fan dancing. Warning: the park bathrooms are grim. Use the one in the KFC across the street before you go in.

Lunch: The Ultimate Mifen Experience

You can’t leave Haikou without eating Hainan mifen My go‑to is Laocheng Mifen Wang ) at 15 Jiefang West Road. It’s a hole‑in‑the‑wall with plastic stools, but the broth — pork bone simmered for 6 hours — is life‑changing. A big bowl costs about 12 RMB (under $2). They don’t have an English menu, so point to the photo of the “dry mix”. 

Address: 15 Jiefang West Road, Longhua District. Open 6:30 a.m. – 2 p.m. (but they run out of noodles around 1 p.m., so go early). Cash only.

Afternoon: Hainan Museum

Escape the midday heat at this excellent museum. The permanent exhibition on Hainan’s maritime history and Li & Miao ethnic cultures is surprisingly engaging. Entry is free, but you need to reserve a time slot via their WeChat mini‑program (search “海南省博物馆”). I recommend the 2 p.m. slot — you’ll beat the school groups. Spend about 2 hours.

Address: 68 Guoxing Avenue, Qiongshan District. Metro Line 2 to Provincial Museum Station, Exit C. Closed on Mondays (except public holidays).

Evening: Street Food on Bo’ai Road

As the sun sets, head to Bo’ai Road near the old quarter. The street transforms into a night market with skewers, grilled oysters, and the famous “ling shui” — a sweet coconut‑based dessert with beans, taro, and jelly. My favorite stall is the third one from the corner on the right (no name, but the auntie always wears a red apron).  Dinner for two costs around 60–80 RMB.

Day 2: Nature & Hot Springs Escape

Morning: Haikou Volcanic Cluster Geopark

This UNESCO Global Geopark is about 30 minutes west of downtown. Taxi costs around 60 RMB (or take bus 1 from Haixiu Road to the terminal, then walk 15 minutes). The main crater is 22,000 years old — you can hike to the rim and look down into the lush vegetation. 

Ticket: Adult 60 RMB, children under 1.2m free (prices fluctuate slightly — check their WeChat mini‑program “海口火山口公园” for current rates). Allow 2–3 hours. Wear good walking shoes — the path is uneven.

Late Morning: The Tiny Village of Meilang

If your legs aren’t too tired, ask your driver to add a 20‑minute detour to Meilang Village. It’s an off‑the‑radar ancient village with twin volcanic stone pagodas from the Song Dynasty. Few English guides mention this — I only discovered it because my taxi driver insisted it was his “favorite peaceful spot.” Entry is free, and there’s a small pond with ducks. It’s not polished, but that’s the charm.

Lunch: The Farm‑to‑Table Spot

Near the geopark, there’s a cluster of farm restaurants. I always choose Huoshan Farmhouse (ask the taxi driver to drop you). Their Wenchang chicken is poached with garlic and served with a ginger‑shallot dip — super tender. A whole chicken costs about 68 RMB. They also have fresh coconut water straight from the tree.

Afternoon: Hot Springs at Guanyang

After the morning hike, your legs will thank you for a soak. Mission Hills Hot Springs has 168 indoor and outdoor pools themed around different world cultures. Skip the “European Garden” section — it’s crowded. Head straight to the “Chinese Herbal Pools” in the back corner. The ginseng pool smells amazing.

Price: 198 RMB per adult (many online booking platforms like Trip.com offer 168 RMB if booked a day ahead). Address: 1 Mission Hills Boulevard, Longhua District. Taxi from the geopark area: about 40 RMB. Open 10 a.m. – 11 p.m. last entry 10 p.m.

Evening: Dinner on Haidian Island

Take a taxi from the hot springs to Haidian Island, a separate island connected by bridges. The food scene here is more modern and upscale. I like Xihe Seafood Restaurant on Binhai Street, for their steamed fish with ginger and lime. Or, if you’re on a tighter budget, the street stalls near Haidianxi Road sell grilled skewers for 3 RMB each. 

Day 3: Modern Haikou & Sunset on the Beach

Morning: Universal Studios? No — Haikou Film Studios

If you’re into movie sets, this is a fun stop. It’s a sprawling complex with reproductions of 1940s Shanghai and Chongqing streets, built for director Feng Xiaogang’s films. Most visitors head straight to the “Shanghai Street” — it’s the most photogenic. But the “Beijing Street” has a little‑known wax museum with some hilariously outdated figures.

Price: 148 RMB for the dual‑street pass (single street is 98). Address: 5 kilometers from the Mission Hills area. Free shuttle bus from the hot springs. Open 9 a.m. – 10 p.m. Allow 2–3 hours.

Lunch: Dim Sum at a Local Teahouse

Haikou has a strong tea‑house culture (“old man’s tea”). You’ll see groups of retired men playing cards and sipping hong cha (black tea) for hours. For a genuine experience, go to Yipin Old Tea House at 21 Binhai Avenue. They serve bite‑sized dim sum like xiaolongbao, shumai, and egg tarts. Everything is between 5 and 15 RMB per plate. Grab a pot of jasmine tea for 8 RMB and just sit for an hour. No one rushes you.

Afternoon: Evergreen Park & Binhai Walk

Walk off the dim sum at Evergreen Park, a huge seaside park with coconut trees and jogging paths. It’s a great spot for people‑watching. From there, walk south along Binhai Avenue toward Wuzhizhou Avenue — you’ll pass the Hainan Provincial Library and eventually hit the Haikou coastline.

Late Afternoon: Holiday Beach

Yes, the name is cheesy, but this 6‑km stretch of sand is where locals come to relax. Take bus 35 from the Evergreen Park area (get off at Holiday Beach station) or taxi (~25 RMB). The beach is clean but not postcard‑perfect — it’s more of a community hangout with barbecue stalls and volleyball nets. 

Sunset & Farewell Dinner

Stay on the beach until sunset (around 6:30 p.m. depending on season). Then head to a seafood restaurant near the eastern end of the beach: West Coast Seafood Plaza, where you pick your own seafood from tanks and they cook it for a small fee. A lobster with garlic noodles will run you about 120 RMB.

Where to Stay in Haikou

Warning: many hostels near Qilou Old Street have thin walls and no elevator. Check recent reviews on Trip.com for noise issues.

What to Eat (and Where) — My Personal Hitlist

• Hainan Mifen – try different versions. The “wet” style at Laocheng Mifen Wang and the “dry‑fried” at Cuizhu Mifen.
• Wenchang Chicken – the gold standard of Hainanese chicken. Liyuan Chicken Rice (18 Guomao Road) does a mean version with garlic rice.
• Ling Shui – coconut‑based dessert. Xiaochu Niang’s (1 Haifu Road) is famous for its “5‑ingredient” bowl. ¥10.
• Grilled Oysters – street stalls near Bo’ai Road. Look for the ones with garlic and chili on top. About ¥12 for 6.

Money-Saving Tips (From Someone Who’s Made All the Mistakes)

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