Chen Liu
What's inside this plan?
Last year I dragged a group of first-timers through Haikou's so-called "must-sees" under the midday sun — worst mistake ever. The heat, the crowds, the overpriced snacks. So I rebuilt this Haikou travel itinerary from scratch. It's built for real foreign travelers who want to actually enjoy this laid-back capital of Hainan without burning cash or patience.
Here's the catch: most online guides will tell you to start at 8 AM and pack six attractions. Don't. You'll sweat through your shirt before lunch. My version starts slow, avoids the tourist traps, and leaves room for spontaneous discoveries.
Bottom line upfront: the best time to wander Qilou Old Street is after 4 PM (shadows are better for photos, shops are open, and the light is golden). Now let me walk you through each day.
Day 1: Old streets and local life
Start with a proper breakfast — not at your hotel. Head to Yipin Laotang (一品老汤, 12 Jiefang West Road) for their spicy soup with rice noodles. It's about ¥15, and locals line up here. No English menu — just point at what others are eating. Pay with WeChat or cash (they'll give you change).
Morning: Qilou Old Street (骑楼老街, Zhongshan Road). This isn't a "scenic spot" — it's a living neighborhood. Walk along the arcaded buildings built by overseas Chinese. I always tell my groups: skip the main strip where vendors sell identical trinkets. Turn into Bo'ai Road (博爱路) instead — you'll find dried seafood, traditional medicine shops, and a real slice of old Haikou.
Alert: Google Maps shows it as "Zhongshan Road". But Apple Maps works fine here. For taxis, show the driver this in Chinese: 海口骑楼老街中山路.
Lunch: a hidden wonton spot — Lao Dao Wonton (老道馄饨, 56 Bo'ai Road). The wontons are hand-wrapped, the broth is peppery. About ¥12 for a bowl. Opens 11 AM–2 PM only. Cash preferred.
Afternoon: Haikou Clock Tower (海口钟楼, intersection of Changdi Road and Renmin Bridge). It's a quick photo stop — 10 minutes max. Then walk to People's Park (人民公园) nearby. Not a must, but nice for shade.
Here's the real gem: instead of rushing, grab a coconut at a street stall (¥8–10) and sit on the steps near the Dongmen Market (东门市场, Bo'ai Road). Watch the ferry boats cross the river. This is the Haikou locals live.
Optional evening: take a walk along Haikou Bay (海口湾). There's a long promenade from the Clock Tower to Wanlv Park (万绿园). Nice breeze, but skip the park itself — it's just grass and families. Better to go for dinner.
Day 2: Volcanoes and hot springs
Morning: Haikou Volcanic Cluster Global Geopark
This is about 15 km southwest of the city. Admission: ¥60 adults, ¥30 for children 1.2–1.4 m, free under 1.2 m. Hours: 8:00–18:00 (last entry 17:30). You can book tickets on Trip.com with your passport — I recommend this because on-site windows can be slow and sometimes require scanning a Chinese ID for the discount. If you buy at the gate, bring your passport.
Getting there: take Didi (Chinese Uber) — about ¥40–50 from city center. Show the driver: 海口火山群世界地质公园. Watch out: weekends get packed after 10 AM. Go right at opening time (8:00) and you'll have the crater almost to yourself.
Pro tip: the hike up is about 200 steps — not bad. But the top is exposed. I've seen people turn red in 20 minutes. Bring water and a hat. There's a small museum near the entrance with English labels, explaining the geology. Worth a quick look.
Afternoon: Mission Hills Hot Springs (观澜湖温泉)
Located inside the Mission Hills resort complex. Admission: ¥168 per person (check Klook for occasional deals). Hours: 13:00–22:00. Getting there: Didi again — about ¥30 from the volcano park, or ¥70 from downtown. Show: 观澜湖温泉.
They have over 40 different pools — including a coconut milk pool (yes, it smells amazing). Towels and lockers are included. But bring your own flip-flops because the loaner ones are often wet.
Pain point: the locker wristband requires a ¥100 deposit (cash only). I always forget to warn my clients. Nobody carries cash anymore — so hit an ATM before coming. There's one at the hotel lobby but it sometimes runs out of cash.
Dinner option: eat at the complex's food court — or better, head back to town for a proper Hainanese chicken rice at Wencheng Chicken (文昌鸡, 32 Longkun South Road). About ¥50 per person. They accept Alipay.
Day 3: Beaches and shopping
Morning: Holiday Beach (假日海滩)
It's a public beach, free entry. Hours: always open. Getting there: bus 28 or 35 from downtown (¥2, no English on bus — best to use Didi, about ¥30). Show driver: 假日海滩. The beach itself is fine — not crystal clear, but the water is warm and there are lifeguards. Umbrella rental ¥20–30.
I'd skip the water sports here — jet ski rentals are overpriced (¥150 for 10 minutes) and the operators often push for tips. Instead, just swim or walk west to the quieter end near the Xiuying Coast (秀英海滩).
Afternoon: Haikou duty-free shopping (海口免税店)
If you're flying out of Haikou, the Riyue Plaza Duty Free (日月广场免税店) is a must for cosmetics and luxury goods. Located in the Qiongshan District. Hours: 10:00–22:00. You need your passport and flight details to purchase. Pick up your items at the airport after security — not at the store. Beware: the queues can be 30+ minutes on weekends. Go on a weekday afternoon.
Warning: not all shops accept international credit cards. WeChat Pay or Alipay linked to a foreign card usually works. But if you plan to spend big, bring a Visa card and test at the counter first.
Last dinner: try Xinglong Coffee (兴隆咖啡, 1 Jiefang Road) for a taste of Hainan's coffee culture — and order some Lawyer Cake (律师饼, a local pastry). Or go to Jinhuo Seafood Market (金活海鲜市场, Binhai Avenue), pick your own seafood (about ¥80–150 per kg), and have the restaurant cook it for ¥10–20 service fee. Cash only for the market booths — bring ¥200.
Where to eat in Haikou
| Restaurant | Address | Specialty | Price per person | Payment | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yipin Laotang | 12 Jiefang West Road | Spicy soup noodles | ¥15 | WeChat / Cash | Open 7–11 AM |
| Lao Dao Wonton | 56 Bo'ai Road | Handmade wontons | ¥12 | Cash | Opens 11 AM–2 PM, closes early |
| Wencheng Chicken | 32 Longkun South Road | Hainanese chicken rice | ¥50 | Alipay / WeChat | English menu with pictures |
| Jinhuo Seafood Market | Binhai Avenue | Fresh seafood cooked to order | ¥100–200 | Cash only for raw seafood; cooked eating pays via WeChat | Choose live seafood first |
| Xinglong Coffee | 1 Jiefang Road | Hainan coffee, Lawyer Cake | ¥30 | Alipay / WeChat | Good for afternoon break |
Where to stay in Haikou
I recommend three options covering different budgets:
Budget: Haikou Old Street International Youth Hostel
Address: 52 Zhongshan Road (inside Qilou area). Price: Dorm bed ¥60–80; private room ¥180–250. Free Wi-Fi, but slow. They offer luggage storage ($). The reception staff speak basic English. Downside: no elevator — you'll carry your bag up stairs. Laundry ¥20 per load.
Mid-range: Haikou Marriott Hotel
Address: 136 Binhai Avenue. Price: ¥500–700 per night. Has a pool, gym, and decent Western breakfast. English-speaking front desk. Stable Wi-Fi. Located near the coast — 15-minute taxi to Qilou. Good for couples.
Luxury: The Ritz-Carlton, Haikou
Address: 9 Guoxing Avenue. Price: ¥1,000–1,500. Top-notch service, massive rooms, and the best club lounge food. It's in the financial district — a bit removed from the old town, but if you want comfort and don't mind taking taxis (¥20–30 to attractions), this is it.
Payment for all: hotels accept international credit cards and Alipay. But many smaller hotels (like the hostel) charge a cash deposit at check-in — usually ¥100–200. You get it back at checkout.
I had high hopes for a non-touristy itinerary, but this one fell a bit flat for me. The first day was pleasant enough – wandering through parks and trying local snacks. But on day two, we visited a so-called 'hidden' beach that turned out to be a construction zone, and the guide insisted on stopping at a pearl shop that was clearly a commission spot. The food recommendations were okay, but nothing mind-blowing. For a self-guided trip, I'd rather do my own research. Three stars – not terrible, but I expected more authenticity.
Overall a very solid three days – the itinerary really does steer clear of the usual traps. I especially loved the morning bike ride through old neighborhoods and the quiet temple at the edge of town. But I have to knock off one star because Day 2 felt a bit rushed: we crammed the volcano park, a museum, and a local market into one afternoon, which left no time to linger. Also, some signs at the market were Chinese-only (fine by me, but a few English translations would help). Still, great value for money and a genuine experience.
As someone who travels for food, this itinerary nailed it. No overpriced street food stalls aimed at tourists. Instead, we hit a local breakfast joint for super fresh changfen (rice rolls) and a hole-in-the-wall place for Hainan chicken rice that had the silkiest texture. The highlight was an evening cooking demo in a family kitchen, where we learned to make authentic wenchang chicken. Every meal was a story. If you're a foodie and hate tourist menus, this trip is a dream. Absolutely recommended!
Came for the beaches, stayed for the volcanoes. The itinerary skipped the usual packed spots and took me to a secluded stretch of sand near Holiday Beach where you can actually hear the waves. The Haikou Volcanic Cluster Geopark was a highlight – hiking up a dormant volcano with hardly any tourists felt surreal. The guide pointed out a small crater lake most people miss. Only wish we had more time to relax by the coast. Still, a solid 5 stars for showing me a side of Haikou I never expected.
This 3-day itinerary was exactly what I needed – no tourist traps, just genuine local vibes. Started at the Qilou Old Street early morning before the crowds, then explored the wet market where vendors let me sample fresh tropical fruits. The hidden temple in a narrow alley was a gem. Evenings were spent at a family-run seafood stall near the port. Every recommendation felt curated by someone who truly knows Haikou. If you want an authentic slice of Hainan life without the tacky souvenir shops, this is it. Absolutely loved every moment!