Xidi vs Hongcun: Which Ancient Village Should You Visit?

If you're planning a trip to Huangshan, you've probably heard of two ancient villages: Xidi and Hongcun. Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites, but they're far from identical. I've taken dozens of travel groups through both, and here's my honest take: Hongcun is more scenic and photogenic, while Xidi feels more authentic and peaceful. Still, your choice depends on what you're looking for. Let's break it down.

Quick Overview: Key Differences at a Glance

Architecture and Layout: How They Differ

Both villages showcase classic Huizhou architecture: whitewashed walls, grey tile roofs, and horse-head walls. But the layout tells a different story.

Xidi has a more linear street pattern, with a main lane and several narrow alleys. It feels like walking through a living museum—many houses are still inhabited by descendants of the original merchants. The highlight is the Hu Wenguang Archway, a towering stone structure built in 1578. I always tell my groups to look at the intricate carvings on the archway: dragons, clouds, and geometric patterns that have survived over 400 years.

Hongcun is designed like an ox—the layout follows a water system that flows through every household. The famous Moon Pond (Yue Zhao) is the centerpiece, a semicircular pool surrounded by old houses. In fact, the whole village is a canvas of reflections. The South Lake Bridge leads into the village, and if you've seen the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, you'll recognize the scene where Zhang Ziyi walks across the bridge.

Crowds and Atmosphere: Which is More Peaceful?

If you hate crowds, pick Xidi. On a typical weekday, Xidi sees maybe a third of Hongcun's visitors. I've wandered through Xidi's back alleys in the afternoon and felt completely alone—just me and the old brick walls. Hongcun, by contrast, is often packed with selfie sticks and guided groups, especially around Moon Pond between 10am and 3pm.

My honest observation: Hongcun is more "touristified." You'll find more souvenir shops, tea houses dressed up for Instagram, and even a few fake ancient artifacts. Xidi feels less commercialized—more like a real village where people still dry vegetables on their rooftops. But that also means fewer restaurants and shops.

If you have limited time and want the classic postcard shot, Hongcun wins. If you want to feel Huizhou culture without the noise, Xidi is your village.

Photography: Best Spots and Timing

For sunrise lovers: Hongcun's Moon Pond is best photographed between 6:30am and 8:00am when the water is still and the light is soft. Expect other photographers there, but it's manageable. By 9am, the crowds flood in. I've learned to bring a polarizing filter to cut glare on the water.

Xidi's best shot: The Hu Wenguang Archway at sunset. The golden light hits the stone carvings beautifully. Also, walk to the small hill behind the village (just past the last row of houses) for an elevated view of the entire village. It's a 5-minute climb, and few tourists bother—so you'll have it to yourself.

How to Get to Xidi and Hongcun from Huangshan

Both villages are about an hour's drive from Huangshan North Station (high-speed rail). Here's what works best:

• By bus: From Huangshan North Station, take bus route 17 to Xidi (departs every 30 minutes, 1 hour, 30 RMB). For Hongcun, take bus route 21 (same interval, 45 minutes, 25 RMB). The bus stop is right outside the station exit.
• By taxi: A taxi from Huangshan North Station to either village costs around 120–150 RMB. If you're in a group, it's worth it for convenience. Ask the driver to drop you at the village entrance.
• By tour shuttle: Many hostels in Tunxi (Huangshan city) offer shared minivans for 50 RMB per person. It's slower but cheaper.

My advice: Take the bus to Xidi in the morning, then catch a public bus from Xidi to Hongcun (30 minutes, 10 RMB). Or hire a taxi between villages for 60 RMB. That way you can do both in a day—but I'll cover that later.

Which Village Fits Your Travel Style?

Let me give you some scenarios:

• You're a solo traveler who wants quiet contemplation? Choose Xidi. Spend an afternoon wandering without a map. You'll discover hidden courtyards and locals weaving baskets.
• You're a photography enthusiast chasing that iconic shot? Hongcun. Moon Pond and South Lake are world-famous for a reason. Bring a wide-angle lens.
• You're traveling with kids or elderly parents? Hongcun is more accessible—flatter paths, more restrooms (though still basic), and more food options. Xidi has some steep stone steps in the back alleys.
• You're on a tight budget? Xidi has cheaper accommodation (from 150 RMB per night) and fewer temptations to spend. Hongcun's entry-level guesthouses start around 200 RMB.

Food and Accommodation: What to Expect

Let's talk about real numbers, not vague advice.

Where to Eat

• In Xidi: Old Street Restaurant (main lane, near the archway). Try the stinky tofu (fermented, crispy outside, soft inside) – 15 RMB. Their braised pork belly with bamboo shoots (48 RMB) is my go-to. They have an English picture menu. Cash only. Opens 11am-8pm.
• In Hongcun: Moon Pond Kitchen (at the edge of the pond). The fried river shrimp (38 RMB) is fresh and garlicky. They accept WeChat Pay. Note: the kitchen gets busy at 7pm, expect a 20-minute wait. No vegetarian options except plain rice.

Where to Stay – Specific Recommendations

In Xidi: Qingyi Inn (about 5 minutes walk from the archway). A restored merchant house with wooden beds. Rooms from 180 RMB (off-peak) to 300 RMB (peak). Free Wi-Fi, but weak signal in inner rooms. The owner speaks basic English. They offer luggage storage for free.

In Hongcun: South Lake East Guesthouse (just outside the south gate). Modern amenities in a traditional building. Double rooms from 250 RMB. The Wi-Fi is stable (I streamed video without issues). The front desk speaks good English. No elevator, but only two floors. Perfect for couples.

One-Day Itinerary: Can You Visit Both?

Yes, but you'll need to be smart. Here's a realistic timeline I've tested with groups:

• 7:30am – Arrive at Xidi. (Leave Huangshan North Station at 6:30am by bus.)
• 7:30–9:30am – Explore Xidi. Focus on the archway and back alleys. Skip the commercial street.
• 9:30–10:00am – Bus from Xidi to Hongcun (30 minutes).
• 10:00am–1:00pm – Hongcun: Moon Pond, South Lake, and the Chengzhi Hall (a grand mansion). Have lunch at Moon Pond Kitchen.
• 1:00–3:00pm – Rest or visit the hill behind Hongcun for a panoramic view. Avoid the midday sun near water.
• 3:00–5:00pm – Free time in Hongcun for shopping or tea tasting.
• 5:00pm – Take bus back to Huangshan North Station.

Frequently Asked Questions

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