Lhasa

I really wanted to love Lhasa, but it didn’t hit me the way I expected. The altitude gave me a headache that never really went away, so that colored everything. The old quarter feels increasingly commercial: identical souvenir stalls, aggressive touts dragging you into their tea houses, and entrance tickets that feel overpriced once you’re inside. Maybe I was too tired or too crowded. I had one quiet moment at Ramoche Temple that almost saved it. If you go, go slow and don’t overplan.

The Potala and Jokhang are undeniably impressive, but the experience got slightly spoiled by the crowds and constant ticket/checkpoint logistics. Had to queue before 7am and still got jostled by tour groups in the narrow staircases. Inside felt rushed — guards kept shouting at us to keep moving. That said, seeing pilgrims prostrate outside the Jokhang made me tear up. It’s a must-see, just manage your expectations for a smoother, quieter visit.

I stayed in a family-run guesthouse near Sera monastery, and the hosts treated me like their own. They made Tibetan noodle soup and topped up my hot water bottle every night. Watching the monks debate at Sera was fascinating — their slaps and big hand gestures seemed theatrical, but you can feel the energy. The rooftop view of the valley at sunset is unreal. Lhasa gave me a home feeling at 3,600m. I will come back.

Spent a whole morning just walking the Barkhor circuit behind the Jokhang. The kora route is hypnotic. Grab a thermos of sweet tea from a courtyard hole-in-the-wall, sit on the steps, and watch people make their rounds. A monk smiled at me and pointed to the sky — no idea what he said, but we both laughed. Found a tiny shop selling hand-painted thangka scenes and had a long conversation with the artist through a translation app. Most tourists rush through, but Lhasa rewards the wanderers.

Woke up before dawn to see the Potala from the west side and almost cried. The white walls glowing against that blue sky, pilgrims circling with prayer beads, the faint sound of horns from the monastery... You need to pace yourself with the altitude, but every slow step felt like part of the experience. Inside the chapels the butter lamp smell is so strong and ancient. I’m not religious, but I left feeling completely still. Lhasa is not just a city, it’s a place that holds you.

I spent a full week in Lhasa and every day brought a new surprise. The Norbulingka gardens were peaceful and beautiful—perfect for a quiet afternoon. I also joined a small group to visit a local family's home; they served us butter tea and shared stories about daily life. The people are incredibly warm and welcoming. Make sure to bring layers; the temperature drops fast after sunset. Zero regrets, I'm already planning my return trip.